At a Glance
Quick OverviewRising from Norwegian forests and fjord shores, the stave churches stand as some of the world’s most remarkable surviving medieval structures—architectural treasures that exist nowhere else on Earth. These wooden masterpieces, built between the 12th and 14th centuries during Norway’s dramatic transition from Norse paganism to Christianity, represent the physical manifestation of a spiritual revolution that transformed Scandinavian civilisation.
Once numbering between 1,300 and 2,000 across Norway (according to estimates by the Norwegian Directorate for Cultural Heritage, Riksantikvaren), only 28 medieval stave churches survive today—each one a precious, irreplaceable link to Norway’s Viking heritage and early Christian faith. These aren’t merely old buildings; they’re tangible connections to the worldview of people living 900 years ago, built by craftsmen who applied shipbuilding techniques developed during the Viking Age to create sanctuaries for a new faith.
With their dragon heads silhouetted against Nordic skies, intricate portal carvings depicting battles between good and evil, and mysterious tar-blackened exteriors, these churches captivate visitors with their strange beauty—simultaneously pagan and Christian, ancient and timeless. Standing inside a stave church, surrounded by 900-year-old timber in near-darkness pierced only by small windows, offers a rare opportunity to experience medieval sacred space largely unchanged.
According to Visit Norway, the Norwegian stave churches are “the oldest preserved wooden churches in Christianity,” representing a unique architectural heritage where Viking craftsmanship met Christian purpose. Urnes Stave Church was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979, recognising the global significance of this distinctive Norwegian contribution to world culture.
Understanding Stave Churches: Architecture, History, and Symbolism
What Makes Stave Churches Unique
The term “stave church” (stavkirke in Norwegian) derives from the corner posts (staver) that form the structural framework. This construction method represents the evolution of Scandinavian wooden building traditions stretching back millennia.
The “stave” construction technique:
- Vertical pine posts (staves) bear the structure’s weight—typically four corner staves surrounding a central nave
- Stone foundation sills (sviller) keep wooden elements away from ground moisture—the crucial innovation that enabled survival
- Ground sills create horizontal bases connected by sophisticated joinery
- Free-standing internal posts support the roof independently from walls
- Complex roof systems with multiple tiers distribute weight and shed Norwegian rain and snow
Why the stone foundation matters:
Earlier Norwegian churches used “post construction” (stolpekirke) with wooden posts driven directly into soil. These rotted within decades. The “stave” innovation—resting posts on stone sills—transformed building longevity. Churches that survived applied this technique; those that didn’t, didn’t survive.
Distinctive features that identify stave churches:
| Feature | Description | Significance |
|---|---|---|
| Multi-tiered roofs | Ascending roof levels creating distinctive silhouette | Structural support + visual drama |
| Dragon heads (draker) | Carved creatures on roof ridges | Viking tradition of protective spirits |
| Portal carvings | Intricate entryway decorations | Transition from worldly to sacred |
| Tar treatment | Black exterior coating | Preservation (traditional pine tar) |
| Shingle roofs | Thousands of small wooden tiles | Weather protection, replaceable |
| Dark interiors | Minimal windows, candlelit | Creates sacred atmosphere |
| Svalgang | Covered walkway around exterior | Protection, procession route |
Historical Context: From Paganism to Christianity
| Period | Historical Significance | Impact on Churches |
|---|---|---|
| 793 CE | Viking Age begins (Lindisfarne raid) | Peak of Norse pagan culture |
| ~995 CE | Olav Tryggvason converts to Christianity | Christianisation begins |
| 1000 CE | Norway officially adopts Christianity | Earliest wooden churches built |
| 1030 CE | Battle of Stiklestad; St. Olav martyred | Christianity established |
| 1100-1350 | Golden age of stave church building | ~1,500+ churches constructed |
| 1349-1351 | Black Death reaches Norway | Population drops 60%; maintenance declines |
| 1537 | Protestant Reformation | Catholic imagery removed/modified |
| 1600-1800 | Stone churches replace wooden | Many stave churches demolished |
| 1840s | Romantic nationalism movement | Appreciation/preservation begins |
| 1979 | Urnes inscribed as UNESCO site | International recognition |
Why So Few Survive: The Loss of Norway’s Medieval Heritage
Of the estimated 1,300-2,000 stave churches that once stood across Norway, only 28 authentic medieval examples remain—a survival rate of roughly 2%. Understanding why so many were lost helps appreciate the preciousness of survivors:
Primary causes of destruction:
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The Black Death (1349-1351): Norway lost approximately 60% of its population. Entire communities vanished, leaving churches without maintenance or congregations.
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Fire: Wooden structures are inherently vulnerable. Multiple stave churches burned over centuries from lightning, candle accidents, and—in the 1990s—arson attacks by black metal extremists.
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Replacement by larger churches: As Norway’s population recovered and grew, medieval churches proved too small. Parishes demolished old stave churches to build larger stone or wooden structures.
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Reformation changes (1537): Protestant authorities removed Catholic imagery, altars, and decorations. Some churches were modified so extensively they lost their character.
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19th-century “improvements”: Well-meaning but destructive renovations removed original features in favour of contemporary styles.
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Weather and neglect: Norwegian climate is harsh. Without continuous maintenance, wooden structures decay.
The preservation turning point: In the 1840s, the Romantic Nationalism movement sparked appreciation for Norwegian folk heritage. Artists like J.C. Dahl documented stave churches; scholars recognised their unique value. The Society for the Preservation of Ancient Norwegian Monuments (Fortidsminneforeningen), founded 1844, began protection efforts that continue today.
The Three Must-Visit Churches: Essential Stave Church Experiences
Having visited all 28 surviving stave churches over the past two decades, I can confidently recommend three as absolutely essential for any visitor to Norway. Each represents a different aspect of stave church heritage, and together they provide a comprehensive introduction to this unique architectural tradition.
Urnes Stave Church (UNESCO World Heritage Site)
The oldest, most decorated, and only UNESCO-listed stave church:
Urnes Stave Church, inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979, stands on a steep hillside overlooking Lustrafjord (a branch of Sognefjord) in one of Norway’s most spectacular settings. Built around 1130 CE, it incorporates elements from an even earlier church on the site, making parts of its famous carvings among the oldest surviving examples of Nordic wooden art.
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Built | ~1130 CE (with older elements from ~1050 CE) |
| UNESCO Inscription | 1979 |
| Location | Ornes, Luster municipality, Sognefjord |
| Elevation | 120 metres above Lustrafjord |
| Architectural Type | Single-nave with raised central section |
| Significance | Oldest surviving + UNESCO status |
Practical Information:
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Address | Ornes, 6870 Ornes (accessible by ferry from Solvorn) |
| Opening Hours | 2 May-14 June: 10:30-16:00; 15 June-15 Aug: 10:00-17:30; 16 Aug-30 Sep: 10:30-16:00 |
| Adult Ticket | 120 NOK (~£9) |
| Children (under 16) | Free |
| Guided Tours | Included with admission (hourly) |
| Accessibility | Limited—steep path, uneven surfaces |
The Urnes Style: A Global Art Historical Term
The “Urnes Style” (Urnesstilen) is named after this church’s famous carved north portal—the definitive example of the final phase of Viking animal art (approximately 1050-1150 CE). This style is characterised by:
- Gracefully intertwined, ribbon-shaped animals
- Asymmetrical compositions
- Flowing, organic lines
- Combat scenes between serpents and quadrupeds
- Sophisticated sophistication absent from earlier, cruder Viking art
Art historians worldwide use “Urnes Style” to describe this aesthetic, making this small Norwegian church’s name a global term in medieval art scholarship.
What Makes Urnes Exceptional:
- The North Portal: Carvings depicting a quadruped (possibly a lion representing Christ) battling serpents (representing evil). Scholars debate whether this reflects Christian symbolism or preserved pagan imagery.
- Interior Paintings: Fragmentary medieval paintings survive on the chancel walls—exceptionally rare in Norwegian wooden churches
- Capitals and Carvings: Interior column capitals feature sophisticated Romanesque-influenced carving
- Atmospheric Setting: The fjord backdrop and hillside location create a pilgrimage atmosphere
Getting to Urnes—Part of the Experience:
The journey to Urnes adds to the experience. From Solvorn (a charming village worth exploring), take the small ferry across Lustrafjord (15-minute crossing, departs regularly). The short hike uphill from the ferry landing to the church takes 10-15 minutes and offers increasingly spectacular views.
Insider Tips:
- Take the first ferry of the day for the quietest experience
- Allow 2-3 hours total including ferry crossings and exploration
- The church interior is small—group tours can crowd quickly
- Combine with exploration of Sognefjord (UNESCO Natural Heritage site)
- Solvorn has excellent accommodation if you want to explore the region
Borgund Stave Church (The Best Preserved)
The quintessential stave church—and the world’s most famous:
Borgund Stave Church, built between 1180 and 1181 CE according to dendrochronological dating, is the best-preserved of all surviving stave churches and has become the defining image of Norwegian medieval architecture. When people picture a stave church—when Disney designed Arendelle Castle for Frozen, when architecture students study Scandinavian medieval building—they’re visualising Borgund.
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Built | 1180-1181 CE (dendrochronologically dated) |
| Location | Laerdal, along E16 (old road between Oslo and Bergen) |
| Architectural Type | Triple-nave basilica with ambulatory |
| Dragon Heads | 4 original draker on roof ridges |
| Preservation Level | Most complete original structure |
| Annual Visitors | ~100,000 |
Practical Information:
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Address | Vindhellavegen 625, 6888 Borgund |
| Opening Hours | May-15 June: 10:00-17:00; 16 June-15 Aug: 8:00-20:00; 16 Aug-Sep: 10:00-17:00 |
| Adult Ticket | 130 NOK (~£10) |
| Children (6-16) | 60 NOK |
| Family Ticket | 300 NOK (2 adults + children) |
| Visitor Centre | Excellent exhibition included |
| Audio Guide | Available (multiple languages) |
What Makes Borgund Exceptional:
- Complete Preservation: Unlike most stave churches, Borgund retains its original structure with minimal later modifications
- Four Dragon Heads: All four original draker (roof-ridge dragon heads) survive—unique among stave churches
- Tiered Roof System: The dramatic ascending roofline demonstrates medieval engineering at its most sophisticated
- The Svalgang: The covered walkway (ambulatory) surrounding the church remains intact
- Portal Carvings: Western portal features intricate vine and dragon carvings
- Setting: The forested mountain backdrop creates the archetypal stave church image
The Visitor Centre Experience:
Borgund’s modern visitor centre (opened 2016) provides essential context before entering the church itself:
- Exhibition on stave church architecture and history
- Scale models showing construction techniques
- Archaeological finds from the site
- Information on preservation efforts
- Film presentation (multiple languages)
Insider Tips:
- Visit early morning or late afternoon to avoid tour bus crowds (peak 10:00-14:00)
- Buy tickets at the visitor centre and watch the exhibition before entering the church
- Walk around the exterior completely before going inside—appreciate the dragon heads and tiered roofs
- The interior is very dark—allow your eyes to adjust for several minutes
- Combine with the Laerdal Tunnel (world’s longest road tunnel at 24.5 km) or the scenic old road over Aurlandsfjellet
Heddal Stave Church (The Largest)
Norway’s largest stave church—and still a functioning parish:
Heddal Stave Church, built in the early 13th century (most likely 1242-1250 CE), is the largest of all surviving stave churches. At 20 metres (66 feet) to the roof ridge and 26 metres (85 feet) long, it towers above other examples. Remarkably, Heddal remains a functioning Lutheran parish church with regular services—the only large stave church where medieval sacred architecture continues to serve its original purpose.
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Built | ~1242-1250 CE |
| Height | 20 metres to ridge; 26 metres spire |
| Length | 26 metres |
| Width | 17 metres |
| Location | Notodden, Telemark (140 km from Oslo) |
| Status | Active Lutheran parish church |
| Architectural Type | Triple-nave basilica |
Practical Information:
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Address | Heddalsvegen 412, 3658 Heddal |
| Opening Hours | 1 June-20 Aug: Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 13:00-17:00; May & late Aug: Limited hours |
| Adult Ticket | 110 NOK (~£9) |
| Children (6-15) | 45 NOK |
| Guided Tours | Available (recommended) |
| Sunday Services | 11:00 (visitors welcome; no entry fee during services) |
What Makes Heddal Exceptional:
- Sheer Scale: The visual impact of Heddal’s size is immediate—this is a substantial church, not a chapel
- Living Worship: Regular Lutheran services maintain the church’s sacred function
- Bishop’s Chair: A medieval bishop’s throne (c. 1200s) remains in use
- Rose Paintings: Interior walls feature 17th-century decorative paintings
- Baptismal Font: Medieval stone font still used for baptisms
- Accessibility from Oslo: Just 2 hours by car, making it the easiest major stave church to visit
The Telemark Connection:
Heddal sits in Telemark, a region famous for traditional Norwegian folk culture—including the rosemaling decorative painting style visible inside the church. The nearby UNESCO World Heritage site of Rjukan-Notodden Industrial Heritage (Norway’s 8th UNESCO site, inscribed 2015) makes an excellent combined visit.
Insider Tips:
- Attend a Sunday service for a unique experience of medieval sacred space in active use (no entry fee)
- The guided tour is worth it—guides share details about ongoing use and local traditions
- Arrive early for the best photography light on the exterior (morning sun on the facade)
- Combine with Notodden Blues Festival if visiting in early August
- Allow 1-2 hours for thorough exploration
Other Notable Stave Churches
Lom Stave Church
Gudbrandsdalen valley:
- Built 1170, expanded later
- Dramatic mountain setting
- Still functioning church
- Historic cemetery
- Charming mountain village
Location: Lom village, en route to Jotunheimen
Kaupanger Stave Church
Sognefjord setting:
- Built 1140s (oldest part)
- Extensively restored
- Important medieval interior
- Near Sogndal
Hopperstad Stave Church
Vikoyri, near Vik:
- Built around 1130
- Heavily restored 1880s
- Distinctive baldachin (canopy)
- Fjord views
Fantoft Stave Church
Near Bergen:
- Replica (original burned 1992)
- Reconstructed 1997
- Easy access from Bergen
- Popular tourist stop
Gol Stave Church (Reconstructed)
At Norwegian Folk Museum, Oslo:
- Original from Gol moved here 1884
- Preserved in open-air museum
- Accessible from central Oslo
- Part of larger folk museum visit
Visiting Strategy
The Stave Church Trail
Multi-day itinerary from Oslo:
| Day | Church(es) | Region |
|---|---|---|
| 1-2 | Gol (Folk Museum) | Oslo |
| 3 | Heddal | Telemark |
| 4-5 | Borgund | Laerdal |
| 6 | Urnes | Sognefjord |
| 7 | Fantoft | Bergen |
Combined with Fjord Tours
Borgund + Sognefjord:
- Daily guided minibus from Flam (summer)
- Includes Stegastein Viewpoint
- Scenic Route Aurlandsfjellet
- Full day excursion
Urnes + Fjord cruise:
- Combine with Sognefjord sailing
- Ferry to Solvorn/Ornes
- Full Sognefjord experience
Day Trips from Major Cities
From Oslo:
- Heddal (~2 hours drive)
- Gol at Folk Museum (central Oslo)
From Bergen:
- Fantoft (15 minutes)
- Borgund (~3 hours)
From Flam:
- Borgund (organised tours)
- Undredal (smallest stave church)
Practical Information
Best Time to Visit
Summer (June-August):
- All churches open
- Longest hours
- Best weather
- Most guided tours available
Shoulder season (May, September):
- Most churches open
- Fewer crowds
- Variable weather
- Limited guided tours
Winter (October-April):
- Most churches closed
- Some accessible by arrangement
- External viewing only
- Atmospheric in snow
What to Expect
Typical visit:
- 30-60 minutes per church
- Entrance fees (NOK 80-150)
- Audio guides at major churches
- Gift shops/visitor centres at popular sites
- Limited facilities at remote churches
Dress code:
- Respectful attire (functioning churches)
- Remove hats in interiors
- Quiet behaviour
- No flash photography
Costs
| Church | Entrance (GBP) |
|---|---|
| Borgund | £10-12 |
| Urnes | £8-10 |
| Heddal | £8-10 |
| Fantoft | £6-8 |
| Gol (Folk Museum) | Museum entry |
Accessibility
Challenge: Many stave churches have:
- Narrow doorways
- Uneven floors
- Steps without rails
- Limited wheelchair access
Best accessible options:
- Visitor centres (Borgund)
- External viewing
- Contact specific churches ahead
Understanding the Architecture
Construction Elements
Structural:
- Stone foundation (sill)
- Vertical staves (posts)
- Corner posts
- Free-standing internal posts
- Complex roof trusses
Decorative:
- Portal carvings (church entrance)
- Dragon/snake head finials
- Interlaced patterns
- Christian symbols
- Runic inscriptions
Viking Influence
Pagan elements preserved:
- Dragon heads (protection)
- Animal interlacing
- Snake/serpent motifs
- Connection to ship-building skills
Christian additions:
- Cross imagery
- Biblical scenes
- Saints’ images
- Baptismal fonts
Preservation
Modern conservation:
- Tar treatment (traditional method)
- Climate monitoring
- Structural reinforcement
- Visitor management
- Ongoing research
The Symbolism
Dragons and Serpents
The dragon heads adorning stave church roofs may seem paradoxical on Christian buildings. Theories include:
- Warding off evil spirits
- Continuation of Viking protective tradition
- Symbolic of defeated paganism
- Simply aesthetic tradition
Portal Carvings
Many stave church portals feature elaborate carvings depicting:
- Battles between good and evil
- Tangled vines and animals
- Biblical stories
- Abstract patterns with spiritual meaning
Light and Darkness
The dark interiors, lit only by small windows and candles, created an atmosphere of mystery and reverence—marking clear separation between mundane outside world and sacred interior space.
Complete List of Surviving Medieval Stave Churches
For dedicated stave church enthusiasts, here is the complete roster of 28 surviving medieval stave churches in Norway:
| Church | Location | Built | Highlights | Accessibility |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Urnes | Luster | ~1130 | UNESCO site, oldest | Ferry required |
| Borgund | Laerdal | ~1180 | Best preserved | Easy road access |
| Heddal | Notodden | ~1250 | Largest, active parish | Easy road access |
| Lom | Lom | ~1170 | Active parish, mountain setting | Easy road access |
| Kaupanger | Sogndal | ~1140 | Near Sognefjord | Easy road access |
| Hopperstad | Vik | ~1130 | Heavily restored | Easy road access |
| Fantoft | Bergen | 1997 (replica) | Replica of 1150 original | Easy city access |
| Gol | Oslo (Folk Museum) | ~1200 | Relocated 1885 | Urban museum |
| Ringebu | Ringebu | ~1220 | Red painted, active | Easy road access |
| Flesberg | Flesberg | ~1150 | Small, atmospheric | Easy road access |
| Rollag | Rollag | ~1200 | Rural setting | Easy road access |
| Nore | Nore | ~1167 | Well preserved | Easy road access |
| Uvdal | Uvdal | ~1168 | Mountain setting | Easy road access |
| Hedalen | Sor-Aurdal | ~1163 | Remote, authentic | Rural road |
| Reinli | Sor-Aurdal | ~1190 | Remote | Rural road |
| Hegge | Oystre Slidre | ~1216 | Mountain village | Easy road access |
| Lomen | Vestre Slidre | ~1170 | Valdres valley | Easy road access |
| Hore | Vang | ~1179 | Mountain setting | Easy road access |
| Oye | Vang | ~1200 | Small | Easy road access |
| Roldal | Roldal | ~1250 | Pilgrimage site | Mountain road |
| Undredal | Aurland | ~1147 | Smallest in use | Fjord village |
| Torpo | Al | ~1190 | Painted ceiling | Easy road access |
| Garmo | Lillehammer (Maihaugen) | ~1150 | Relocated to museum | Urban museum |
| Hoyjord | Andebu | ~1200 | Southeastern Norway | Easy road access |
| Kvernes | Averoy | ~1300 | Coastal, octagonal | Coastal road |
| Grip | Grip island | ~1470 | Remote island | Boat required |
| Rodven | Rauma | ~1200 | Fjord setting | Easy road access |
| Eidsborg | Tokke | ~1250 | Mountain village | Rural road |
Sample Itineraries
Weekend: Best of Stave Churches (2 Days)
| Day | Activities |
|---|---|
| 1 | Oslo → Heddal (morning), drive to Borgund (afternoon) |
| 2 | Borgund (morning), Flam area exploration, return or continue to Bergen |
One Week: Comprehensive Tour
| Day | Churches/Region |
|---|---|
| 1 | Oslo: Gol at Folk Museum |
| 2 | Heddal, drive west |
| 3 | Borgund and Laerdal |
| 4 | Ferry to Urnes, explore Sognefjord |
| 5 | Kaupanger, drive towards Bergen |
| 6 | Fantoft, Bergen exploration |
| 7 | Hopperstad or return |
Combined with Fjords (4 Days)
| Day | Activities |
|---|---|
| 1 | Bergen → Fantoft → Flam |
| 2 | Norway in a Nutshell cruise |
| 3 | Borgund tour from Flam |
| 4 | Urnes and Sognefjord, return |
Budget Planning
Expected Costs (2026 Prices)
| Expense Category | Budget (NOK) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Church entries | 80-150 each | Major churches higher |
| Guided tours | 100-200 additional | Recommended at Urnes, Borgund |
| Ferry (Urnes) | 50-100 round trip | Solvorn-Ornes |
| Audio guides | 50-80 | Available at major sites |
| Visitor centres | Usually included | Borgund has excellent centre |
Day Trip Budgets:
| Trip | Approximate Cost |
|---|---|
| Heddal from Oslo (car) | 500-800 NOK (fuel, entry, food) |
| Borgund from Bergen (tour) | 1,200-1,800 NOK (organised tour) |
| Urnes from Flam (tour) | 1,500-2,200 NOK (including ferry) |
Final Advice: Approaching These Sacred Treasures
Norway’s stave churches represent one of Europe’s most remarkable architectural survivals—wooden buildings nearly 900 years old that bridge the Viking age and Christian era. Each church tells a story of faith, craftsmanship, and the remarkable preservation efforts that saved these treasures from extinction.
My recommendations after 25+ years visiting these churches:
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Don’t rush. Take time to appreciate the dragon heads silhouetted against Nordic skies, the intricate portal carvings that took medieval craftsmen months to complete, and the mysterious atmosphere within these dark, ancient interiors.
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Visit at least three churches to understand the variety within the tradition—Urnes for artistic significance and UNESCO status (~1130), Borgund for classic architecture (1180-1181), and Heddal for scale (29 metres high) and living worship.
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Consider the full experience. The journey to remote churches like Urnes or Roldal adds meaning. The ferry crossing, the mountain drive, the walk uphill—these create pilgrimage experiences.
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Respect these sacred spaces. Several remain functioning churches. Even museums request quiet, respectful behaviour. Remove hats; speak softly; ask before photographing.
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Plan for weather. Norwegian conditions are variable. Pack layers and rain gear even in summer.
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Allow time. A proper stave church visit takes 1-2 hours minimum. Rushing through a church that has stood for 900 years seems inappropriate.
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Engage with guides. The people working at these churches are often passionate experts. Ask questions; their insights transform visits.
Whether you visit one church or plan an entire stave church pilgrimage, you’re connecting with a unique heritage found nowhere else in the world. These aren’t merely tourist attractions—they’re national treasures that connect modern Norway to its medieval past, representing the transition from Viking paganism to Christianity in tangible, beautiful form.
Of the estimated 1,300-2,000 stave churches built between 1150-1350 AD, only 28 survive today. Each visit helps support their preservation for future generations.
Explore Norway ToursInformation sourced from Visit Norway, World History Encyclopedia, and the Norwegian Directorate for Cultural Heritage (Riksantikvaren). Opening times and prices vary seasonally—always verify current information before visiting. Last updated January 2026.