Besseggen Ridge is Norway’s most hiked mountain trail—a spectacular narrow ridge walk with one of the country’s most iconic views: green Lake Gjende on one side, deep blue Lake Bessvatnet on the other, separated by a dramatic knife-edge ridge. Located in Jotunheimen National Park, this 13.5-kilometer trail draws over 60,000 hikers annually, and for good reason.
The contrast between the two lakes—one colored green by glacial sediment, the other blue from rain and snowmelt—creates a surreal scene that must be seen to be believed. Add the dramatic ridge walking, sweeping mountain panoramas, and rich Norwegian hiking culture, and you have one of Europe’s finest day hikes.
Trail Overview
Key Statistics
| Metric | Value |
|---|---|
| Distance | 14 km point to point |
| Duration | 6-8 hours |
| Elevation gain | ~1,100 meters total |
| Highest point | 1,743 meters (Veslfjellet) |
| Difficulty | Demanding (DNT Red - Krevende) |
| Season | Late June - Early October |
| Boat cost (Gjendebaten) | ~240 NOK one way |
| Annual hikers | 60,000 |
| GPS coordinates | 61.4989N, 8.8356E |
Trail Description
Classic Route (Memurubu to Gjendesheim):
- Boat to Memurubu (20 min from Gjendesheim)
- Ascent to Besseggen (steep, 2-3 hours)
- Ridge walk (1-2 hours, spectacular views)
- Descent via Veslfjellet (2-3 hours)
- Finish at Gjendesheim
Why This Direction?
Hiking from Memurubu to Gjendesheim is preferred because:
- Steepest section tackled fresh
- Ridge views unfold ahead of you
- Return to Gjendesheim (facilities, parking)
- Boat schedule works better
The Two Lakes: Gjende & Bessvatnet
Lake Gjende (Green)
- Color: Distinctive milky green
- Reason: Glacial sediment (rock flour)
- Length: 18 km
- Depth: 145 m
- Elevation: 984 m
Lake Bessvatnet (Blue)
- Color: Deep sapphire blue
- Reason: Fed by rain and snowmelt (no glacial input)
- Length: 4 km
- Depth: 25 m
- Elevation: 1,373 m
The ridge separates these two lakes by almost 400 vertical meters, creating the famous view where green water lies far below on one side while blue water gleams above on the other.
Book Boat TicketsThe Boat: Gjendebåten
Schedule
The Gjendebåten operates from mid-June to mid-October.
Peak season departures (July-August):
- First boat: ~7:30 AM
- Last boat: ~4:30 PM
- Multiple departures throughout day
Shoulder season:
- Reduced schedule
- Check gjende.no for current times
Booking
| When | How Far Ahead |
|---|---|
| Peak weekends | 1-2 weeks |
| Peak weekdays | 2-3 days |
| Shoulder season | 1-2 days |
Cost: 240 NOK ($23 USD) one-way
Tips
- Book early boats for quiet trails
- Arrive 15-20 minutes before departure
- Boats run regardless of weather (within reason)
- No reservations needed for return (hiking down)
Trail Sections Detailed
Section 1: Memurubu to Ridge Base (2-3 km)
Terrain: Forest then open mountainside Duration: 1-1.5 hours Elevation: 984m to ~1,200m
Starting from Memurubu, the trail climbs steadily through birch forest before emerging onto open slopes. Views of Lake Gjende open up behind you.
Section 2: Steep Climb to Besseggen (1 km)
Terrain: Steep, rocky scramble Duration: 1-1.5 hours Elevation: 1,200m to 1,550m
The steepest section of the hike. Use hands for balance in places. Not technically climbing, but requires care. This is where the views start to become extraordinary.
Section 3: The Ridge (2 km)
Terrain: Narrow ridge, exposed Duration: 1-2 hours Elevation: 1,550m (rolling)
The famous part—a narrow ridge with dramatic drops on both sides. In good conditions, it’s exhilarating rather than dangerous, but take your time and watch your footing. This is where you’ll take most of your photos.
Ridge conditions:
- Width: 1-3 meters in narrowest sections
- Exposure: Significant drops both sides
- Difficulty: No technical climbing required
- Danger: Low if you’re confident with heights
Section 4: Veslfjellet & Descent (7 km)
Terrain: Mountain plateau, then descent Duration: 3-4 hours Elevation: 1,550m down to 984m
After the ridge, the trail crosses open mountain terrain, summits Veslfjellet (1,743m—optional but recommended), and descends gradually to Gjendesheim. This section can feel long but offers beautiful views throughout.
Best Time to Hike
Monthly Conditions
| Month | Conditions | Crowds |
|---|---|---|
| June (late) | Snow possible, cool | Light |
| July | Best weather, dry | Very High |
| August | Good weather | High |
| September | Cooler, fall colors | Moderate |
| October (early) | Cold, snow possible | Light |
Weather Considerations
Check yr.no for Jotunheimen forecasts. Be prepared for:
- Rapid weather changes
- Cold temperatures at altitude (even summer)
- Rain at any time
- Wind on the exposed ridge
Getting There
To Gjendesheim
From Oslo: ~4 hours drive via E6 and Rv51 From Bergen: ~7 hours drive Public transport: Bus from Oslo to Beitostølen, then local bus to Gjendesheim
Parking
- Large parking lot at Gjendesheim
- Cost: NOK 150-200/day (~$15-20)
- Fills early on peak weekends—arrive by 7 AM
Accommodation
Gjendesheim:
- DNT lodge with dorms and private rooms
- Restaurant and facilities
- Book ahead in peak season
Memurubu:
- Starting point of hike
- Historic mountain lodge
- Overnight option if hiking in reverse
What to Bring
Essential Gear
- Hiking boots: Sturdy, ankle support, broken-in
- Layers: Weather changes rapidly
- Rain jacket: Essential
- Warm layer: Fleece or down (cold on ridge)
- Hat and gloves: Even in summer
- Water: Minimum 1.5L
- Food: Lunch plus snacks (6-8 hour day)
- Map/GPS: Download offline maps
- Headlamp: In case of delays
- First aid kit: Basic supplies
Recommended Additions
- Trekking poles (helpful on descent)
- Sunscreen and sunglasses
- Camera (you’ll want photos!)
- Cash (for boat, lodge)
Safety Tips
Before You Go
- Check weather forecast (yr.no)
- Book boat ticket in advance
- Tell someone your plans
- Start early for best experience
- Check trail conditions online
On the Trail
- Stay on marked path
- Take care on the ridge
- Turn back if weather worsens
- Pace yourself—it’s a long day
- Watch for mountain weather signs
Emergency
- Emergency number: 113
- Cell coverage: Patchy—don’t rely on it
- DNT lodges: Staff can help with emergencies
- Hjelp 113 app: Download before hiking
Alternative Routes
Longer Loop (No Boat)
Hike from Gjendesheim to Besseggen and back, adding ~5 km. More strenuous but avoids boat logistics.
Overnight Option
- Stay at Memurubu night before
- Early start on the ridge
- Most peaceful experience
Easier Alternative: Knutshøe
If Besseggen seems too challenging, Knutshøe (1,517m) offers excellent views without the exposed ridge. Trailhead at same location.
Photography Tips
Best Shots
- Two lakes from the ridge: The classic image
- Ridge with hikers: Shows scale
- Lake Gjende reflection: Morning calm
- Summit panoramas: 360-degree views
- Wildflowers: July brings alpine blooms
Timing
- Morning: Soft light, fewer people
- Midday: Harsh light but clearest skies
- Golden hour: Beautiful but late (may run into darkness issues)
Combining with Other Hikes
Multi-Day Jotunheimen
| Day | Hike |
|---|---|
| 1 | Besseggen Ridge |
| 2 | Galdhøpiggen (Norway’s highest) |
| 3 | Glittertind or rest day |
Nearby Attractions
- Galdhøpiggen: Norway’s highest peak (2,469m)
- Glittertind: Second highest (2,465m)
- Styggevatnet: Glacier lake
- Lom Stave Church: Historic church en route
Practical Information
Costs Summary
| Item | Price (USD) |
|---|---|
| Boat one-way | $17-20 |
| Parking | $15-20/day |
| Gjendesheim dormitory | $35-50/night |
| Private room | $80-120/night |
| Guided hike | $100-150 |
Facilities
Gjendesheim:
- Restaurant and café
- Shop (limited hiking gear)
- Toilets
- Showers (for guests)
- Camping nearby
On trail:
- No facilities
- Natural water sources (drink from streams)
Final Thoughts
Besseggen Ridge earns its reputation as Norway’s most popular hike. The combination of dramatic ridge walking, the surreal two-lake view, and the grandeur of Jotunheimen makes for an unforgettable day in the mountains. Yes, it’s busy—but start early, hike mid-week if possible, and you’ll understand why 60,000 people make this pilgrimage every year. Just be prepared for the length, respect the mountain, and enjoy one of Europe’s finest hikes.
Understanding Jotunheimen National Park
Besseggen sits within Jotunheimen National Park—Norway’s premier mountain wilderness and one of Northern Europe’s most spectacular alpine environments.
Jotunheimen Facts
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Name meaning | ”Home of the Giants” (Norse mythology) |
| Area | 1,151 square kilometers |
| Established | 1980 |
| Highest peak | Galdhopiggen (2,469m) - Norway’s highest |
| Second highest | Glittertind (2,465m) |
| Peaks over 2,000m | More than 250 |
| Main access points | Gjendesheim, Leirvassbu, Spiterstulen |
| DNT cabins | Multiple staffed and self-service |
History of Besseggen
The Besseggen ridge has been a hiking destination for over 150 years. The route was immortalized in Henrik Ibsen’s 1867 play “Peer Gynt,” where the protagonist famously rides a reindeer along the ridge. This literary connection helped establish Besseggen as a must-do Norwegian experience.
The first tourists arrived in the 1860s when the Romantic movement drew artists and writers to Norway’s dramatic landscapes. Gjendesheim lodge was established in 1871 and has operated continuously since then, making it one of Norway’s oldest mountain lodges.
Comparing Besseggen to Other Norwegian Iconic Hikes
Besseggen vs. Trolltunga
| Aspect | Besseggen | Trolltunga |
|---|---|---|
| Distance | 14 km point to point | 20-28 km round trip |
| Elevation Gain | ~1,100m | 320-1,317m |
| Time Required | 6-8 hours | 7-12 hours |
| Difficulty | Demanding | Demanding |
| Highest Point | 1,743m | 1,100m |
| Iconic Feature | Two-colored lakes, ridge walk | Rock tongue over lake |
| Annual Visitors | 60,000 | ~80,000 |
| Logistics | Requires boat ride | Car access to trailhead |
Recommendation: Besseggen offers a true ridge walk with dramatic exposure. Trolltunga is a longer journey to a single iconic viewpoint. Both are demanding; choose based on whether you prefer ridge walking or cliff photography.
Besseggen vs. Preikestolen
| Aspect | Besseggen | Preikestolen |
|---|---|---|
| Distance | 14 km point to point | 8 km round trip |
| Elevation Gain | ~1,100m | 334-500m |
| Time Required | 6-8 hours | 4-5 hours |
| Difficulty | Demanding | Moderate |
| Altitude | 1,743m highest | 604m above fjord |
| Type | Ridge walk | Cliff platform |
| Region | Jotunheimen (inland) | Lysefjord (coast) |
Recommendation: Preikestolen is more accessible. Besseggen requires more commitment but delivers a completely different mountain experience with genuine high-altitude terrain.
Detailed Weather Considerations
Mountain Weather in Jotunheimen
Jotunheimen’s high altitude and inland position create distinct weather patterns. At 1,743m, conditions can be dramatically different from the valley.
Monthly Conditions:
| Month | Temperature at Summit | Precipitation | Wind | Snow Risk |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Late June | 2-12C | Variable | Moderate | Snow patches possible |
| July | 5-15C | Lowest | Light-Moderate | Clear |
| August | 4-14C | Increasing | Moderate | Clear |
| September | 0-10C | Variable | Increasing | First snow possible |
| Early October | -5 to 5C | Variable | Strong | Snow likely at altitude |
Weather Hazards:
- Wind on Ridge: The exposed ridge is dangerous in strong winds. Gusts can exceed 20 m/s.
- Fog/Clouds: Ridge navigation becomes difficult. Steep drops on both sides create serious risk.
- Rain: Wet rock is slippery. Rain combined with wind creates hypothermia risk.
- Snow: Snow patches can linger into July at highest elevations. Early season requires caution.
- Thunderstorms: Extremely dangerous on exposed ridge. Retreat immediately.
Weather Resources:
- Yr.no - Check Besseggen-specific forecast
- Varsom.no - Avalanche and weather warnings
- Gjendesheim lodge can provide local conditions
Complete Equipment Checklist
Essential Gear
| Item | Specification | Why Essential |
|---|---|---|
| Hiking Boots | Sturdy, waterproof, ankle support | Rocky terrain, potential wet conditions |
| Backpack | 25-35L with hip belt | Carry all supplies for 6-8 hours |
| Water | Minimum 1.5 liters | No reliable sources on ridge |
| Food | 2,000+ calories | Long day at altitude |
| Rain Jacket | Waterproof, breathable | Weather changes rapidly |
| Rain Pants | Waterproof | Full protection essential |
| Warm Layer | Fleece + down/synthetic | Summit significantly colder |
| Hat and Gloves | Warm + windproof | Essential at 1,743m even in summer |
| Map/GPS | Offline maps downloaded | Navigation in poor visibility |
| Headlamp | Fresh batteries | In case of delayed return |
Recommended Additions
| Item | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Trekking Poles | Stability on rocky terrain, reduce knee strain |
| Sunglasses | Bright conditions at altitude |
| Sunscreen SPF 30+ | High altitude sun exposure |
| First Aid Kit | Blister treatment, basic supplies |
| Camera | THE view of two-colored lakes |
| Cash (NOK) | Boat ticket, lodge purchases |
| Emergency Blanket | Lightweight, vital if stranded |
Clothing System
Layer 1 - Base: Merino wool or synthetic (never cotton) Layer 2 - Insulation: Fleece jacket Layer 3 - Additional Warmth: Light down or synthetic jacket Layer 4 - Shell: Waterproof, windproof jacket and pants Feet: Waterproof boots, wool socks (bring spare) Head: Sun hat + warm beanie Hands: Lightweight gloves (windproof)
Photography Guide for Besseggen
The Iconic Two-Lake Shot
Besseggen’s signature image shows the contrast between green Lake Gjende and blue Lake Bessvatnet separated by the dramatic ridge.
Best Viewpoints:
- Main Ridge Section: Multiple angles as you traverse
- Veslfjellet Summit (1,743m): Panoramic views in all directions
- Looking back toward Memurubu: Shows ridge with both lakes
- Early in the ridge traverse: Classic two-lake composition
Optimal Lighting:
| Time | Light Quality | Conditions |
|---|---|---|
| 7-10 AM | Soft, warm | Best for photography |
| 10 AM-3 PM | Harsh overhead | Worst conditions |
| 3-7 PM | Improving | Good for return shots |
| Evening (summer) | Golden light | Spectacular if still on ridge |
Camera Settings:
| Scenario | Aperture | Shutter | ISO |
|---|---|---|---|
| Two-lake panorama | f/8-11 | 1/125+ | 100-400 |
| Person on ridge | f/5.6-8 | 1/250+ | Auto |
| Wide landscape | f/11-16 | Variable | 100 |
| Moody clouds | f/8-11 | 1/125+ | 200-800 |
Composition Tips:
- Include person for scale on the narrow ridge
- Use leading lines of the ridge itself
- Frame both lakes in the same shot
- Capture the color contrast between green and blue
- Consider vertical/portrait format for social media
Transportation and Access
Getting to Gjendesheim
From Oslo:
- Distance: ~290 km
- Driving time: ~4 hours via E6 and Rv51
- Route: E6 north to Otta, then Rv15 and Rv51 west
- Scenic drive through Norwegian mountains
From Bergen:
- Distance: ~400 km
- Driving time: ~7 hours
- Multiple route options through mountain passes
- Consider overnight stop
From Trondheim:
- Distance: ~350 km
- Driving time: ~5.5 hours
- Via Oppdal and Rv15
Public Transport:
- Bus from Oslo to Beitostolen, then local bus to Gjendesheim
- Limited frequency—check schedules carefully
- Allow extra time for connections
Parking at Gjendesheim
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Location | At Gjendesheim lodge |
| Capacity | Large lot, can fill on peak weekends |
| Cost | 150-200 NOK per day |
| Arrival time | Before 7:30 AM for first boat |
| Facilities | Toilets, lodge, restaurant |
Accommodation Options
At Gjendesheim
Gjendesheim DNT Lodge:
| Aspect | Details |
|---|---|
| Type | DNT staffed lodge |
| Established | 1871 |
| Rooms | Private and dormitory |
| Meals | Full service restaurant |
| Price range | 500-1,500 NOK/night |
| DNT members | Discounted rates |
| Book ahead | Essential in summer |
At Memurubu (Start Point)
Memurubu Mountain Lodge:
- Historic lodge at hiking start
- Overnight option for reverse hike
- Restaurant and accommodation
- Accessible by boat from Gjendesheim
Nearby Alternatives
| Option | Distance | Features |
|---|---|---|
| Beitostolen | 50 km | Full resort town, many hotels |
| Lom | 80 km | Historic town, stave church |
| Camping | Various | Wild camping permitted (allemannsretten) |
Practical Cost Summary
| Item | Cost (NOK) | Cost (USD) |
|---|---|---|
| Gjendebaten boat (one way) | ~240 | $23 |
| Parking (Gjendesheim) | 150-200 | $14-19 |
| Gjendesheim dorm | 400-600 | $37-56 |
| Gjendesheim private room | 900-1,500 | $85-140 |
| Meals at lodge | 150-350 | $14-33 |
| Guided hike | 1,000-1,500 | $95-140 |
| Camping | Free | Free (wild camping) |
Safety Information
Ridge-Specific Safety
The Ridge Section Demands Respect:
- Width: 1-3 meters in narrowest sections
- Drops: Steep on both sides (hundreds of meters)
- Difficulty: No technical climbing, but exposure significant
- Confidence with heights essential
When NOT to Attempt:
- Strong winds (above 15 m/s)
- Rain or wet conditions
- Fog or low visibility
- Thunderstorms
- If you have fear of heights
- If you are exhausted
Emergency Information
| Service | Number | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Emergency (all) | 112 | Police, fire, ambulance |
| Ambulance | 113 | Medical emergencies |
| Mountain rescue | Via 112 | State “Besseggen” clearly |
| Gjendesheim lodge | +47 61 23 89 44 | Local assistance |
Mobile Coverage: Patchy on ridge. Summit usually has signal. Download offline maps before hiking.
Hjelp 113 App: Download this Norwegian emergency app—shares your GPS coordinates with emergency services.
Multi-Day Jotunheimen Itineraries
Two-Day Besseggen Focus
| Day | Activity | Accommodation |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Travel to Gjendesheim, explore area | Gjendesheim lodge |
| 2 | Besseggen hike, return to base | Gjendesheim or depart |
Three-Day Jotunheimen Adventure
| Day | Activity | Accommodation |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Travel, evening exploration | Gjendesheim |
| 2 | Besseggen hike | Gjendesheim |
| 3 | Galdhopiggen or Glittertind summit | Spiterstulen or depart |
Week-Long Norwegian Hiking Tour
| Day | Location | Hike |
|---|---|---|
| 1-2 | Jotunheimen | Besseggen Ridge |
| 3 | Travel day | Drive to Hardangerfjord |
| 4-5 | Odda | Trolltunga |
| 6 | Travel day | Drive to Stavanger |
| 7 | Stavanger | Preikestolen |
Final Thoughts
Besseggen Ridge represents Norwegian hiking at its finest—a dramatic ridge walk between two impossibly colored lakes in the heart of Jotunheimen’s alpine wilderness. The combination of accessible challenge, iconic scenery, and rich cultural heritage explains why 60,000 hikers make this pilgrimage annually.
The ridge demands respect. Good fitness is essential. Weather awareness is critical. The narrow section with drops on both sides requires confidence with exposure. But for those properly prepared, Besseggen delivers an experience that ranks among Europe’s finest day hikes.
Take the early boat. Bring proper gear. Check the weather obsessively. And when you stand on that ridge, with green water far below on one side and blue water gleaming above on the other, you’ll understand why Henrik Ibsen’s Peer Gynt rode this ridge in the Norwegian imagination, and why hikers have followed ever since.
As Norwegians say: “God tur!”—Have a good trip.
For official information, visit Visit Norway Besseggen and Gjendebaten. Approximately 60,000 hikers complete Besseggen annually. The 14km trail reaches 1,743m altitude with approximately 1,100m total elevation change. The Gjendebaten boat costs approximately 240 NOK. Always check weather conditions at Yr.no before hiking. Last updated January 2026.